process | toe to knee｜トートーニー

slipper making process

process

スリッパができるまで
slipper making process

1.型紙・抜型

全行程の設計図。
[型紙]
立体物を平面展開したもの。紙型ともいう。
[抜型]
革を裁断するための薄い鋼材でできた刃型。

1. Pattern and Punch

This is the blueprint of the whole process.
<Pattern>
The open plan of the product.
<Punch>
A kind of knife made of thin steel to cut leather.

2.鞣し・染革

立体だったものを平面にする工程。
[皮・革]
動物からはいだままの鞣されていないものが「皮」、鞣されると「革」へ。
革がはきもの等の材料として最適とされるのは、動物の皮膚であるが故に、適度な通気性、柔軟性、伸縮性、復元性を備えているため。
[鞣す]
動物からはいだ皮を、鞣し剤を用いて化学処理し革にすること。
鞣し剤には、植物性と鉱物性のものがあり、植物性では樹皮などから採取したタンニン、鉱物性ではクロムが代表的。
[染革]
革を染めること。

2. Tanning and Dyeing

It's a process which makes leather flat.
<Leather>
Skins and leather: "skin" becomes "leather" after it goes through a tannage process.
Animal leather is supposed to be the best material for footwear because of its breathability, softness, elasticity and resilience.
<Tanning>
Tanning is the process to treat animal skin chemically with a tanning formula, which makes it into leather.
There are vegetable and mineral tanning materials. A vegetable tannage uses tannin extract, which occurs naturally in a variety of tree barks. Mineral tannage uses a chemical called chromium sulphate.
<Dyeing>
Dyeing is a process which colors tanned leather.

3.裁断

商品の顔をつくる作業。素材を無駄なく取れるかは職人さんの腕次第。
[裁断]
キズなどを避けながら、抜型を革の上にセットし、素材を包丁や打ち抜き機などで切ること。

3. Cutting

It is a process that determines a big part of the product's appearance.
This operation needs a high level of skill to ensure that the least amount of leather is wasted.
<Cutting>
The procedure is to cut out the material from leather while avoiding any imperfections using a knife or punch.

4.箔押

商品のもうひとつの顔ともいえる工程。
少し位置がずれると目立ってしまうため、正確さが求められる作業。
[箔押]
模様や文字を押印すること。

4.Embossing

This is another significant process which decides the product's look.
It requires a great deal of care as any imperfections stand out immediately.
<Embossing>
Embossing is the process which stamps patterns, or letters, on the surface of leather.

5.漉き・製甲

平面から立体物へ組み立て上げる工程。
[漉き]
革全体の厚さを均一にするために革を削ぐこと、または革の縁を斜めに薄く削ぐこと。
[製甲]
縫い合わせ、まとめること。

5.Skiving and Closing

This brings a flat surface into 3 dimensions.
<Skiving>
The skiving process shaves off any excess leather to make a uniform thickness.
This reduces the thickness on the edges of the leather.
<Closing>
The process which sews the pieces together.

6.仕上げ

見た目を美しくするために行われる作業。
革や靴の製造の最終段階。スリッパでは糸処理や検品。

6.Finishing

This is the final touch in the process.
The final process when treating leather or making shoes.
While slipper making, it involves disposing of thread and inspecting the product.